From cotton to cauliflower, the go-green phenomenon is sweeping through all sectors of the retail environment, and wine is no exception.
With grapes topping the list of the most chemically-sprayed produce on the market today, it’s small wonder that increasingly wine drinkers are filling their glasses with organic tipple.
So what exactly makes a wine organic? Many people, erroneously, believe that organically grown grapes automatically produce organic wine.
It goes without saying that for a wine to be labelled "organic", no chemicals, pesticides or herbicides are to be used in the growing of the grapes – only compost and organic materials, including indigenous vegetation for mulching. But in the cellar, too, there are regulations.
Foremost among these is the fact that the maximum allowable quantity of sulphur dioxide in an organic wine is half that of conventional wines.
This reduction in the use of sulfites is a boon for allergy-sensitive people who suff er from "sulfite" headaches, although, again, it is a common misconception that organic wines contain no sulphur at all. At best, a very small amount of sulphur will be present in all wines.
This is produced by the grapes themselves during the fermentation process. If the level of sulphur in the wine is under 10 parts per million, the wine may be labelled "no sulphur added" (the normal limit is 200 parts per million), but winemakers find they need sulphur to prevent oxidation and spoilage.
As far back as 20 years ago, Woolworths produced a no-sulphur-added red and white in conjunction with Fairview, but premature oxidation of the wines forced the discontinuation of the lines.
Today, Woolworths sells Stellar Winery’s organic, no-sulphur-added Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and should have no-sulphur-added white wines on the shelves soon.
Although not organic, also on sale is a no-sulphur-added méthode cap classique sparkling wine from Villiera, called Brut Natural.
These no sulphur-added-wines are labelled with a sell-by date to prevent oxidation in the bottle.
When visiting the farms of Woolworths’ organic wine suppliers, such as Bon Cap or Stellar Winery, I’m always struck by their incredible beauty.
Although not conventionally tidy with spreadsheet rows of vines, organic wine farms tend to be full of life: bees, birds and bats feast on vine-destroying insects and weeds in an incredible demonstration of nature’s innate system of checks and balances.
What’s more, by eliminating the use of sprays, not only are the vines and soil "healthier", but over time, a more distinct terroir character should also be picked up in the wine.
At Bon Cap, owners Michelle and Roelf du Preez and young winemaker Jacques Conradie are supremely passionate about their organic wine. Set on the banks of the Breede River in Robertson, this sixth-generation-run family farm is producing a harvest of organic wine that has paid off handsomely with awards, trophies and high ratings. Further north in Vredenburg, the Stellar Winery’s vineyards sit beside those of export-quality organic table grapes.
Despite the steady increase in sales, organic wines are still very green in South Africa. The reality is that only a handful of our wine farms are presently committed to the organic process - less than 0.35% of South African vineyards, in fact.
And, while opinions on organic wines are split, most agree that, organic or not, wine should always be judged on the basis of how it fares in the glass, not just on the label.
Having said that, with more and more quality organic wines beginning to enter the market, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t fill a glass and toast not only to good health but to a better environment too.
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