Food Editor Abigail Donnelly says soufflé's popularity is on the rise again. Here she demystifies the art of transforming runny egg whites into the perfect baked dish.
It may strike fear into the hearts of most firsttime cooks, but making a soufflé is not the daunting task it seems. By sticking to a few key principles and working quickly, your soufflé will rise to the occasion every time – puffed up and golden brown, with a slight wobble.
A soufflé is made up of two components: a base, often béchamel sauce, for a savoury soufflé, or crème de patissière (pastry cream) for a sweet one, and frothy, beaten egg whites.
Much of a soufflé’s success depends on these perfectly whipped whites – it gets its characteristic puff from the air molecules trapped in the egg whites.
Older soufflé recipes may call for adding a pinch of cream of tartar to the egg whites – this makes them stiffer – but in the age of electric beaters, this really isn’t necessary.
You might also come across recipes specifying that the egg whites be beaten in a copper bowl. The egg whites react with the copper ions, also resulting in slightly stiffer whites.
Once again, this custom has become superfluous in modern times. Egg whites should be at room temperature and beaten in a clean, dry bowl. Any trace of grease will result in the whites not fluffing up adequately.
Next, gently fold a little of the whites into the base mixture. Then fold in the remaining whites with a metal spoon, taking care not to overmix, as this will break the air bubbles.
The correct baking temperature is key. If the oven is too hot, you’ll end up with a burnt crust and a raw centre, and if it’s too cold, the soufflé won’t rise well.
Also, try to resist the urge to open the oven door too often.
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