No matter how many times you slip onto the leather benches of Pretoria East's Tribeca Standard, there's always an innovative interpretation of New York flavour to surprise and delight.
From the breakfast bliss of bacon and sweetcorn fritters to the dill-laden magic of Bloody Mary prawn cakes and the retro-chic comfort of slow-roasted pork belly or vanilla soaked cherry pie, every dish on offer at Tribeca Standard serves up a celebration of Big Apple epicureanism.
Owner Martin Fitzgerald confirms that he and partner Dale Mazon have developed a strong brand in Pretoria over the past 14 years: “We are known for using the best quality coffee beans, for ethical sourcing policies and for our commitment to barista training. People come to us because they know we offer a superior coffee-shop experience. With Tribeca Standard, we wanted to build on that reputation.”
The Tribeca ethos of “timeless quality” extends even to the décor, which has the patina of real life. “You never want a place to feel like a made-to-order set,” explains Dale. “A space must be allowed to grow and change … even better if the furnishings have had a previous existence,” continues Martin, pointing to the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling wine cabinet that once occupied pride of place in Lennon’s Pharmacy in Mafikeng.
The same can be said of the food. Chef Alicea Malan explains that although the menu has an understated Francophone bistro-meets New York-deli feel, it never loses the personal touch. “There are quiet elements of who we are in every dish. We serve good, honest food cooked from the heart and, as a result, customers trust us with their special family moments … we’re a home away from home.”
Colleague chef Andrew Glass (who moonlights as the bass player in local band Outside the New) concurs: “Cooking is like music – you can’t do it well if you’re not in the mood. What’s more, you can build complexity, colour and texture only if you have a clear idea of what you’re doing in the first place.”
Because the restaurant serves the nearby Atterbury theatre crowd, the food also needs to be quick for patrons rushing off to an evening show, and classy for lingering over post production, continues Andrew. Indeed, these values are deliciously apparent in every salt scattered French fry drenched in roast garlic mayonnaise, every rich forkful of red velvet cake and every bite of thin-crusted pizza.
And, with the background score moving effortlessly from the mournful magic of Billie Holiday to the soul-lifting tempo of the “Girl from Ipanema”, the chef’s wisdom is made delectably apparent… there truly is music in every mouthful.
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For more info: phone (012) 348-6144 or visit their website www.tribeca.co.za
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